'97 Points - Erin Larkin - Wine Advocate

I remember judging at a major wine show in Western Australia in 2016 and seeing a very large bracket of Western Australian Chardonnays from the 2015 vintage. I was staggered but the power and concentration of them as a group, and it is an impression that has left an indelible mark upon my assessment of the vintage since then. This 2015 Kevin John Chardonnay has penetrating acidity that spears through the heart of the opulent fruit in the mouth, with yellow peach and singed mango in abundance. The spice register carries across from ginger, cardamom, saffron and pepper, making for an altogether savory, nutty style of wine. 2015 had a bit of the magic swirling about it, and while most of the Chardonnays produced in the season in Margaret River are concentrated, some are extra elevated above the pack. This is one of those. For those interested, the wine has a pH of 3.5, total acidity of 8.0 grams and 13.7% alcohol. Sealed under screw cap.