Soft and velvety, this is a mild interpretation of the Rougui cultivar in which its characteristic taste of cinnamon bark plays second fiddle to oaky woodiness and subtler aromas. A moderate roasting creates an umami and quite balanced broth, in which slight acidity develops into hints of yellow plum and lemon, and from whose surface wafts the surprising note of jasmine. Matouyan, famed for yan cha in general, boasts a history of Rougui production (sometimes referred to as Ma Rou), and it certainly seems to be deserved in this case, elevating a frequently brusque tea into a refined and delicate infusion.