The 1997 is the most restrained vintage in the Museum Shiraz range. A cooler, lower-scoring year in the Great Southern, it produced a wine with more structure and less immediate fruit weight than the vintages either side of it. That austerity has been its quiet strength: the 1997 has aged slowly and is now showing composed, precise complexity -- pepper, dried herbs, earthy cedar and a firm, measured finish. Best suited to those with an appreciation for structure over generosity in a mature Great Southern red.