Burge's top Shiraz is no longer designated "Reserve," but is blended into the "Premium" Draycott cuvee. The rich, full-bodied, dense purple-colored 2000 Premium Shiraz Draycott emerges from a vintage that is not as highly regarded as the 2001 and 2002. The 2000 is a lavishly concentrated effort offering aromas of sweet blackberry jam intermixed with acacia flowers, pepper, and spicy new oak. Aged in equal parts French and American oak, it is opulent, full-bodied, and pure, with an impressively layered texture. Already gorgeous to drink, it should evolve for 7-8 years, possibly longer.

Rick Burge, whom I visited on my trip to Barossa last year, manages to keep prices in check for his sumptuous wines, which offer extraordinarily pure fruit, and the warmth and intensity of the Barossa. Readers should not confuse these wines with those from Barossa's Grant Burge. The latter offerings are competent but commercial, simple efforts.