The wine now comes in a Burgundy-shaped bottle, and is DIAM-sealed. It’s a Beechworth blend of Nebbiolo (93%) and Barbera.

I said this of the 2021 and I’ll say it of this 2023: don’t hesitate, just buy it. This is such a wonderful wine to drink. It tastes of licorice, tonic, fragrant herbs, honeyed tobacco and roasted nuts, but it’s the interplay between its satiny softness and its determined dryness that both impresses, and makes you want to dive so keenly in for more. This is one of those wines where it’s effectively impossible to see the joins. It smells of sweet pastries and florals and it dives into darker realms from there. Boy. $35? It’s fantastic buying.