Forget what you think you know about albariño. Entre Os Ríos, a family-owned winery on the south-west coast of Galicia, create aromatic, textured examples of this classic variety that are utterly brimming with character. The estate is about 3km from the coast, with terraced vineyards of old vines on granitic soils very similar to the neighbouring Rias Baixas DO. The approach in both the vineyards and the winery is as minimal as possible: despite the cool, rainy climate, chemical interventions are used sparingly, and fermentations are spontaneous and slow, usually lasting for about 30 days. A very short maceration on the skins prior to fermentation allows for maximum phenolic extraction, and in fact these are possibly the most exuberant albariños we have ever tasted. 

A slang term for someone who’s a bit bonkers, the Komokabras wines are the result of experiments by winemaker José Cruzat with different vessels and winemaking techniques. This one is entirely raised in stainless steel, with half aged on lees with full malolactic, the other half seeing neither. The result is a lovely balance between crisp citrusy notes and rich, soft texture. Just as expressive as its little sister, but with slightly more depth and greater savoury complexity.